Throughout my entire life, I’ve been waiting for a place to really surprise me.
You know what I mean; I usually go into a new place with an expectation of whether I’m going to love it or hate it, and I’m usually right. But each and every time, I have a small hope inside me that maybe this place will be the one that will leave me shocked and questioning myself.
Well, newsflash: Munich is NOT that place. Throughout my entire life, I’ve had a distinct suspicion that I was going to love Munich like crazy, and I damn sure did!
I loved the way historic and ornate churches seemed to blend so perfectly into the modern city streets. I loved the way backpackers and local kids would climb up onto the bridge over the Hackerbrucke S-bahn station, smoking cigarettes and watching the trains fly by under their feet, even in the latest hours of the night. I loved the sense of community, as well as the sense of Bavarian pride that exuded from the city.
It was all too easy for Munich to win me over, and I didn’t even try to put up a fight against it. I fell hard and fast for the Bavarian capital, with its old history, Gothic architecture, killer food scene, and slight hint of youthful urban grit.
Munich is old, yet mindbogglingly clean; historic, yet progressive; charming, yet believable. It’s a city that I could totally see myself living in, and at the very least, a place I’d love to spend more time in.
That said, it’s very easy to get around Munich, both by foot and by train. If 48 hours in Munich happens to be all you’ve got, don’t fret! You can see all of the top sights in only two days. Here are the ones you won’t want to miss:
Marienplatz
Marienplatz is the heart, soul, and lifeblood of Munich.
It has been the main square for the city of Munich for the past 850 years (!!!) and it has the architecture, style, and history to prove it.
Marienplatz is home to many of Munich’s most iconic buildings, skylines and sights, and it’s easy to spend a full day in this compact area enjoying the history and culture and scoping out the most tantalizingly fragrant food stalls.
Of course, ask any traveler to conjure up a mental image of Marienplatz and it’s likely you’ll get the same result every time: New Town Hall.
This massive, ornate, Gothic building towers over Marienplatz, and is home to the the uber-famous tourist attraction, the Rathaus Glockenspiel.
At 11am every day (and 12pm and 5pm on summer days), you can enjoy a 15 minute Glockenspiel show depicting two traditional Bavarian story-lines. If you want to catch the full show, make sure you arrive in plenty of time; crowds form early to snag a prime location, and the show stops and ends precisely on time–just like clockwork (ha ha).
Oh, and there are snacks and ICE CREAM everywhere. Rejoice!!
You can also take the lift up to the top of the New Town Hall tower, where you can gaze upon panoramic views of Munich, including views of one of Marienplatz’s other big architectural and historic sights: Old Town Hall.
Old Town Hall is much less grand and imposing than New Town Hall, but it’s certainly still a beautiful building, especially when combo-ed with the rest of Munich’s skyline.
From the top of New Town Hall, you can also see St. Peter’s Church, the oldest church in Munich. This Roman Catholic Church is Gothic in style and is as absolutely stunning and impressive on the inside as it is on the outside.
Munich is chock full of gorgeous Catholic churches to admire; you can read more about some of the best ones here.
St. Michael’s and St. Johann Nepomuk are both located very close (just a short walk) to Marienplatz, so make sure to stop by for a chance to see the wide variety of architectural styles and character present in Munich’s many churches.
Of course, Marienplatz is a wonderful place to simply have a seat and soak it all in. There are so many subtle details in the area to take in, and it would be a shame to rush through such a complex and historic area.
Marienplatz can, at times, feel a bit chaotic–especially during the touristic summer months. But beyond those maddening crowds are some truly spectacular glimpses into the city’s culture, history, and charm, and if you look closely, you’ll begin to see the storybook magic of Munich and Marienplatz.
After a full day of exploring and soaking in all that fairy tale charm, I realized I needed something with a little more substance to keep me going: food.
Luckily, Munich is not short on options–not at all.
There are options to suit every budget and palate: food stalls, grab-and-go cafes, sit-down outdoor restaurants, and fine dining. My preference was the Viktualienmarkt food market, conveniently located behind St. Peter’s Church.
This daily market offers meats, cheeses, fruits, vegetables, juices, and more. My method was to sample as much as humanly possible, grabbing a sausage from this vendor, a pickle from that vendor, a pretzel from somewhere else and a fresh squeezed juice from yet another stall.
For a snack-o-holic like me, this food market was heaven.
If you’re looking for something with a little more shade and relaxation than the food market but with just as much character, then I’ve got a treat for you: Asamhof Passage.
This little alley is discreetly tucked away just outside of the hustle and bustle of Marienplatz, but stepping inside feels as if you’ve found your own little springtime oasis of color and wonder.
Restaurants with colorful umbrellas, tables and chairs line the alley, but what will really blow you away are the flowers.
Because, um, THERE ARE SO. MANY. FLOWERS.
If you’ve got bad pollen allergies you should probably avoid this place like the plague. But, for the flower-obsessed restaurant-goer, you really can’t do much better.
Of course, if you’re looking for a cold drink to wash down your hearty German food after a long day of sightseeing, there’s really only one option: Hofbräuhaus.
There’s the option to sit inside or outside, which I think really depends on what kind of experience you want. For me, the choice was clear: I was going to sit in the shady, lush, green beer garden, and unwind with a big cold one after a long day in the summer heat.
Munich Residenz
Believe it or not, all of the previous sights are located within very, very, very close proximity to each other…as in a five minute walk or less.
If you’re willing to walk just a tad further, you’ll find yourself at the former royal palace of the House of Wittelsbach: the Munich Residenz.
The Residenz is AMAZING and should not be missed, although it will take you a solid three or so hours to get through all of the rooms here. But, that’s only because the architecture and detail here is so out of this world.
Even after visiting Neuschwanstein and all of Bavaria’s amazing churches, the Munich Residenz is still the place that amazed me the most. Plus, it’s MASSIVE, with never-ending rooms after rooms filled with beautiful interiors and furniture.
My favorite room in the entire palace was the Grotto Courtyard. It was decorated with rocks and shells, and had the vibe of an underwater sea cave. For me, it felt like a little piece of the lost city of Atlantis had been planted right here inside the palace.
Within the other palace rooms, there were all kinds of historic artifacts to be discovered, such as the statue of Perseus beheading Medusa, or the containers of saints’ bones.
Englisher Garden
If you’re craving a bit of greenery and nature time, then continue walking a bit more and you’ll find yourself in the lush and sprawling Englisher Garden.
Guys, this park is AMAZING. It’s like Central Park on steroids, and it is magical.
It’s extremely popular with the “younger” crowd, and on the uncharacteristically hot day that I visited (it was 95 F…that’s 35 C for my non-American friends) it was packed with people trying to get some sun, shade, and everything in between.
My absolute favorite attraction was the river that ran through the park. Not only did the gorgeous blue-green water give off a refreshingly cool mist and provide for a relaxing soundtrack, but it offered some serious fun for anyone willing to hop in and cool down.
I mean, have you ever seen a river that you could SURF IN?!
I lost track of time watching these surfers glide back and forth through the waves. It was weirdly hypnotic, and I could see myself coming back here daily to enjoy the show if I lived here.
I was hooked on Englisher Garden as soon as I caught sight of the surfers, but as it turns out, there are many other ways to enjoy the park.
I had read that swimming in the river was prohibited, but it was VERY clear on the day that I visited that if that is a rule, it’s not one that anyone abides by.
I plopped down in the grass near the river bank and watched as HUNDREDS of swimmers jumped into the quickly moving water and rode it like a lazy river, only to climb out, run back to the start, and do it all over again.
I wished so badly that I could have jumped in too, but I didn’t feel like trekking back to my hostel, changing into my swimsuit and coming all the way back just for a swim. So, if you make your way to Englisher Garden on a hot summer day, learn from my mistakes and BRING YOUR SWIMSUIT. It would have been so, so, so nice to cool off in the river, and on top of that, it looked like a blast.
I did, however, find a few other ways to enjoy the park. I grabbed an ice cream cone from a vendor in the park (one scoop chocolate, one scoop hazelnut) and took a leisurely stroll around the park, which was so peaceful and happiness-inducing.
There is nothing in the world like being in an amazing place, surrounded by thousands upon thousands of happy people enjoying the summer weather, and taking in gorgeous green scenery–with an ice cream in hand, I might add.
What did I tell you? Englisher Garden is HEAVEN.
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Have you ever been to Munich? What was your favorite sight or activity? If you haven’t been, what would you most like to see or do there?
Emily says
Munich sounds wonderful! I’m saving this in the hopes I get to visit someday soon 🙂
Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
Munich really was the best! I hope you get to visit soon too!
Kailey | The Blonde Travelista says
Munich is my FAVOURITE! I loved it so much when I was there! The sights, the people, the food and beer! Ah, I can’t wait to go back again. Although.. I may be biased because that’s where I met my boyfriend 😉
Thanks for posting!
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Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
I know, I loved it all so much! And that’s so great that you met your boyfriend there…I think it’s totally okay to be biased in that situation 😉
Ashley @ The Wandering Weekenderd says
I seriously can’t get over how beautiful the architecture is! I’ve heard that Munich is the German city that you have to visit because of how beautiful it is and the Bavarian culture!
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Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
The architecture was totally one of my favorite parts. It really was just so beautiful!
Elizabeth Hampton says
Beautiful churches, buildings, ice cream, surfing, and beer!?? I’m sold! Munich sounds fabulous and I love your photographs.
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Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
It was seriously SUCH a cool place! I couldn’t get over it…and I’d already love to go back.
Sydney says
Hi Kelly! I’ve been reading your blog for a while, and I just wanted to say that it has been so helpful for planning my upcoming Germany trip! I’m planning to mostly follow in your footsteps through the Bavaria region. Everywhere you went just looks too amazing!! And this Munich post made me so excited for my own trip to Munich.
Can’t wait to read about your upcoming travels in Central America too!!
Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
Hi Sydney! Thank you so much your kind words–that’s seriously such a great compliment! I’m sure your trip to Germany will be amazing. Let me know if you have any questions or need advice!
Camille says
Nice! Munich was my ex’s favourite city and he has good taste, so I will need to go at some point 🙂
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Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
Hahah yeah, it was defintely a great city!
Anna says
This makes my heart so happy!! I wish I was there to show you around but you saw so much! Love you! p.s.- yes I am stalking your blog again
Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
I know, I wish we could have explored together! Loved Munich & love you!!
Ashley says
Girl,. I am so in love with your posts! The same thing happened to me when I went to Munich, I fell so in love with it, so hard and so fast! As much as I want to visit new countries, I always want to go back to Munich too! Choices! Munich is definitely in my top 3 faves 🙂
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Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
I know what you mean, I could totally see myself choosing to go back to Munich rather than going somewhere new!
Ina says
Hi Kelly! your posts about Munich is sooo impressed and helpful as I will spend 48 hours in Munich also on my upcoming Eurotrip. Thanks Girl!
Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
Glad to hear it, Ina! Much is a great city, I hope you have fun!!
Richard Corporaal says
Oh man, Munich looks like a blast – I need to go there very soon!! Great post and awesome inspiration for my blog-to-be!
Hatch says
FYI to your readers. I too love Munich and am currently visiting it. I went to the residence because of your recommendation, and was very disappointed. The residence is a museum not the original residence. Non of it is authentic due to it’s destruction during WWII. The Germans have done a beautiful job rebuilding it as the newest phase was finished in the mid 1980’s. I should have done my homework after reading your blog. I would not waste precious time in Munich visiting it.
Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
I’m sorry you didn’t enjoy it! For me personally the Munich Residenz was a big highlight, and I will definitely still recommend that travelers visit! I guess it doesn’t bother me that so much of the building is a reconstruction, because that’s the case with so many historic buildings throughout Europe thanks to WWII. I still appreciate the art and style of design there. Hopefully the rest of your trip to Munich has been great!
Sarah says
I live in Munich and I’m really happy you enjoyed your stay here in Bavaria! We visited the residenz and all with school and I love its vibe! I’m glad you liked the englischer garten and the hackerbrücke, I’m 14 so that’s where my friends and I like to chill. Munich is awesome around Oktober cuz that’s when the Oktoberfest is on. Some call it a beer festival, but I love going there with my friends in Dirndl( a Bavarian dress) and the lads all has their Lederhosn( Bavarian clothes for guys) on and we all go on the crazy rides! BTW: if you love skiing, make sure to come to Bavaria( or Austria) in winter cuz we have great skiing areas just over an hour away from Munich! And around Christmas, the entire Marienplatz is a huge “christkindl-market” wich is soooo cool!
Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
That’s awesome Sarah, I bet Munich is a great place to live! It’s such a beautiful, interesting city. I would love to come back and go skiing in the winter sometime, and to see the Christmas markets!
Sarah Stephens says
Hi! What is the restaurant called with the foliage/ivy going up the front of it?
Thanks!
Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
Hi! I believe it’s this one: http://www.pfistermuehle.de/en/
Herb says
Thanks for the tips! I am heading to Munich for Oktoberfest 2017. Since I only plan to spend a few hours at the festival, I was looking for some other things to do. You gave me everything I needed to fill in the rest of my time there.
Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
That’s awesome, I’m sure you’ll have a great time! Happy travels 🙂
Jolie Hebert says
Thanks for the post! Going in a couple weeks with my family and they are not as laid back with traveling as I am. I need to make sure to have some things planned! 🙂
Kelly | The Wandering Blonde says
Haha sometimes it’s good to be spontaneous, other times it’s nice to plan. Have fun!!