After spending a whopping 11 days in Shanghai getting to know the city’s every nook and cranny (just kidding, even a year wouldn’t be enough for that) Derek and I hopped aboard a train bound for Hangzhou – or, as the Chinese call it, “Paradise on Earth.”

Quite the nickname to live up to, eh? But believe it or not, Hangzhou has a very, very solid foundation supporting its lofty reputation. For one thing, the earliest human civilizations in this region date back seven thousand years.

I’ll just let that sink it.

Hangzhou has flourished for thousands upon thousands of years; it has seen entire centuries-long dynasties rise and fall, and stood strong as major cultural and historical moments came to pass. And over the years, it has attracted the attention and praise of countless emperors, leaders, explorers, artists, writers, and merchants from various eras for its immense cultural significance and natural beauty.

Hangzhou’s heritage is so rich and storied, it’s almost difficult to put into words.

It’s entirely possible that Marco Polo – one of history’s most famed explorers – said it best: “Hangzhou is without a doubt the finest and most splendid city in the world.”

Of course, a lot has changed since good ol’ Marco visited…oh, roughly 800 years ago? For one thing, the city now has a population of more than 9 million – massive for most countries around the world, but significantly smaller than China’s mega-cities of Shanghai and Beijing.

But still, there’s no denying that there’s something special about Hangzhou. To walk among its many cultural and historical sites is like walking through thousands of years of history.

West Lake

In a vast landscape of rolling green hills, soaring mountain peaks, and dense forests, West Lake stands out like the shimmering jewel it is. The first mention of this natural freshwater lake appeared in the Book of Han, a history of China recorded in 111 AD.

It has played an essential role in the shaping of Hangzhou’s – and China’s – culture and history, and earned recognition as a UNESCO World Culture Heritage Site.

Encircled by gentle hills and flanked by willows, peach blossoms, and floating lotuses, West Lake’s natural beauty is immediately apparent. It’s no wonder that it has served as inspiration for numerous poets and painters throughout China’s history, appearing in a number of important literary and artistic works.

Today, West Lake is also known for its incredible pagodas, temples, classical gardens, and even artificial islands and causeways within the lake. Many of these structures were constructed between 900 and 1000 AD.

For me, the below poem from the mid-1200s really captures the elegance and allure of West Lake in words:

“Green mountains surround on all sides
the still waters of the lake.
Pavilions and towers in hues of gold
and azure rise here and there.
One would say a landscape composed by a painter.
Only towards the east,
where there are no hills,
does the land open out,
and there sparkle, like fishes’ scales,
the bright coloured tiles of a thousand roofs.”

I truly don’t know that I’ve ever traveled somewhere where nature plays such an intimate role in the local culture and art before. Seasonality, the sun, the moon, and the natural world are so ingrained in the identities of Hangzhou and West Lake…and honestly, for whatever reason, it’s very humbling.

I actually get goosebumps when I reflect on it.

The Ten Scenes of West Lake

One of the things that I found most fascinating and inspiring about West Lake was the “Ten Scenes of West Lake,” a list of scenic spots established during the 13th century and immortalized by a commemorative marker at each location.

What’s interesting about these scenic spots is that they’re extremely precise; some can only be experienced during certain seasons (like springtime) or times of day (like sunset), while others require that certain conditions be met (birds singing, or recent snowfall) or activities be completed (viewing fish swimming).

The Ten Scenes are as follows:

1. Dawn on the Su Causeway in Spring
2. Curved Yard and Lotus Pool in Summer
3. Moon over the Peaceful Lake in Autumn
4. Remnant Snow on the Bridge in Winter
5. Leifeng Pagoda in the Sunset
6. Two Peaks Piercing the Clouds
7. Orioles Singing in the Willows
8. Fish Viewing at the Flower Pond
9. Three Ponds Mirroring the Moon
10. Evening Bell Ringing at the Nanping Hill

Of course, it would require multiple visits over the course of an entire year to experience all ten scenes in their truest form (because the first four all take place in different seasons) but it’s still entirely possible to visit the individual locations referenced in each scene.

Lingyin Temple (Temple of Soul’s Retreat)

I visited my fair share of Buddhist temples in Shanghai, but even so, I was absolutely mesmerized by the beauty of Lingyin temple. The complex is nestled in the Wulin mountains, just northwest of town.

Legend has it that the temple was founded by an Indian monk called Huili in 328 AD, after he was inspired by the spiritual nature of the surrounding landscape. It was built as a dwelling for immortal spirits and named accordingly; the English translation is “Temple of the Soul’s Retreat.”

Peace, grandeur, and solitude are the cornerstones of Lingyin’s setting and design. It follows a traditional Song dynasty five-hall structure, each dedicated to specific deities.

But perhaps the most noteworthy sight is Feliai Feng (The Peak Flown From Afar), a limestone hill located near the temple that features intricate religious carvings.

Here, hundreds of Buddha statues have been carved into the craggy grottos and caves. The hike to the peak itself serves as a spiritual pilgrimage for many Buddhists.

Longjing (Dragon Well) Tea Fields

Green tea lovers, rejoice! Hangzhou is credited with producing some of the finest quality green tea on the planet: longjing, or “dragon well.”

To qualify as true authentic longjing tea, it must have been harvested from the hills surrounding Hangzhou, specifically Longjing Village. This distinctive tea has a mellow, pleasant flavor and earthy aroma that is celebrated by tea enthusiasts around the globe.

Exploring the area where this tea is grown is easy – just ask your hotel to arrange a taxi to take you to Longjing Village. From there, you can trek into the hills high above the village itself and wander amongst the tea plantations.

Your reward: breathtaking panoramic views of endless rows of tea bushes in every direction. Guys, I loved this. It was easily some of the most beautiful and unique scenery I’ve ever been lucky enough to view with my own two eyes.

And of course, you can’t leave without sipping a hot cup of green tea down in the village below; there are numerous small shops and restaurants to choose from.

Leifeng Pagoda

Originally constructed in 977 AD, Leifeng Pagoda is the oldest colorful bronze pagoda in all of China. The story behind this monument is almost-but-not-quite romantic; the king of the Wuyue Kingdom called for its construction to celebrate the pregnancy of his favorite concubine. Touching, eh?

It has been renovated several times throughout history – most recently in 2001, when escalators and elevators were added to accommodate the influx of visitors. The interior was also excavated at this time (many artifacts and treasures were found), so unfortunately there is nothing left to see inside the pagoda itself.

That said, it’s still worth venturing to the top of the pagoda for views of West Lake and the city skyline in the distance.

Impression West Lake

As far as nighttime activities in Hangzhou go, my favorite pastime was simply wandering around the edges of the lake and watching the pagodas and temples light up against the dark blue of the sky and the water. But if you’re looking for something more structured, Impression West Lake is considered a “must do” for many travelers.

This performance takes place on the lake itself; a stage has been constructed just under the surface, to create the illusion that the performers are dancing across the water.

It’s part light-show, and part musical. Over the course of 10 distinct acts, performers bring the stories, myths, and legends of West Lake to life through song and dance.

I won’t lie – I had no idea what was happening throughout the idea show, but it was certainly beautiful to watch.

How to Get to Hangzhou from Shanghai

We opted to take a high-speed train (G train) directly from Shanghai to Hangzhou, which took just under 1 hour. While using the trains in China is both efficient and affordable, we felt a little overwhelmed by the process of purchasing tickets.

The self-service machines at the stations don’t recognize non-Chinese IDs, which are required for purchasing tickets. And knowing how scarce English speakers are, the idea of trying to communicate our ticket needs at the counter to an attendant was daunting.

Plus, it’s recommended to purchase your train tickets in advance, since they’re often already sold out on the day of travel – that means going out of your way to stop by the station several days before your trip.

So, we took the easy route: we booked our train tickets through China Highlights, who delivered the tickets directly to our hotel concierge desk for us to collect. The total cost for our two 2nd-class roundtrip tickets was $74…not bad!

However you choose to buy your tickets, be sure to arrive at the station at least an hour before your departure time, since you’ll need to go through security.

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Do you love visiting places with ancient history and culture as much as I do? Would you ever plan a trip to Hangzhou?

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