One of my New Year’s Resolutions for 2018 was to do some more traveling stateside; specifically, I made it a goal to take a new weekend trip within California every month this year.
Since moving to the West Coast last May, I’ve done a fair bit of exploring around my new home state…but to be honest, not quite as much as I would have hoped by this point. A single-night trip up to San Francisco here, a weekend in Carmel-by-the-Sea there…
All memorable trips and plenty of fun to be sure, but what about Los Angeles? Big Sur? Yosemite? Somehow 8 whole months had passed, and I still hadn’t crossed off most of my biggest California “bucket list” destinations.
I mean, WHAT?!
So as of January of this year, it was time to get serious. No more messing around – I was determined to visit a new destination every month of 2018.
And as for my first new destination?
Hello, Oakland…the “other” city by the bay.
When it comes to exploring the California Bay Area, San Francisco is the obvious choice. Fisherman’s Wharf, the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, the Painted Ladies…
…but what’s that, across the water?
A second city nestled up against the water’s edge, sporting its own bustling waterfront, vibrant farmers markets, colorful street murals, historic architecture, and hip shopping districts? That’s right – welcome to Oakland, California!
First, let’s get one thing straight: I know Oakland doesn’t have the most glowing reputation. In fact, let’s get right down to the nitty gritty truth of it: by the late 1980s and early 1990s, it was considered to be one of the most dangerous cities in the United States.
But you know what? Those times were nearly 30 years ago…and believe it or not, a lot can change within that time frame.
Over the years, a stream of housing and redevelopment projects have shaped Oakland into a very different city than it was in the 80s and 90s, and today it’s hands-down one of the Golden State’s coolest cities.
Still not convinced? See for yourself with this Oakland travel guide – perfect for a quick single-day or weekend trip!
Trendy Temescal: A Multicultural Melting Pot
One of the oldest neighborhoods in the city, Temescal is your quintessential hipster haven.
As you wander the streets of this small, funky neighborhood, you’ll pass formerly-rundown historic buildings that have been renovated and reborn as cafes, beer gardens, art galleries, dive bars, yoga studios, brunch spots, tattoo parlors and bike shops.
You’ll stumble across heartfelt murals, colorful graffiti, passionate lawn signs, historic churches, and maybe an urban farm or two. Perhaps you’re in the mood for Korean fusion, authentic Ethiopian cuisine, local California wine, or organic green smoothies – take your pick, it’s all here.
You’ll want to dedicate at least an hour or so to exploring this vibrant neighborhood by foot; it’s the best way to really get a feel for this eclectic, multicultural region of the city. And don’t let the gritty exterior fool you – Temescal is gentrifying rapidly, and while there are still areas of Oakland where it’s unwise to wander after dark, in general this isn’t one of them.
Although we didn’t end up buying much, we enjoyed poking our heads into Temescals many boutiques and shops. Crimson Horticultural Rarities was a personal favorite (I bought an adorable baby succulent!) along with the stylish Esqueleto, Baggu, Ali Golden, and Homestead Apothecary.
Where to Dine & Drink
One of the best things about exploring Temescal is the abundance of absolutely mouthwatering FOOD.
Hands-down our favorite meal in the whole city was at Homeroom, a small eatery dedicated to one food, and one food only: Mac ‘n cheese.
Yep, you heard it here folks; there’s a restaurant in Oakland that serves nothing but deliciously cheesy and indulgent mac ‘n cheese (…okay, you can order a small selection of salads and veggies, but why would you?!)
I went for the Buffalo Chicken mac while Derek ordered the Chicken Bacon Ranch, but honestly, we could have easily split one dish. The portions are absolutely massive, and we noticed that the staff was quick to offer to-go containers – I imagine it’s rare for a customer to finish a whole bowl in one sitting. But I’ll be damned if I didn’t try!
Bonus: They even offer a vegan mac ‘n cheese!
We also enjoyed the coffee at The Cro Cafe, as well as the Fiery Chicken, Chicken with Basil, and coconut rice at Burma Superstar (although I’ve read that the true star of this famous Burmese joint is the Tea Leaf Salad). Be prepared for a hefty wait time, though.
Our final meal in the city was breakfast at Donas Tomás; we both ordered the huevos benedictinos, which was satisfying but not mind-blowing. The coconut horchata iced coffee, on the other hand, was divine!
Some other popular restaurants & bars that we didn’t have time to sample include:
- Bakesale Betty: Locally famous fried chicken sandwiches
- Bird and Buffalo: Thai food
- Sahn Maru: Korean BBQ
- Cholita Linda: Latin American cuisine
- Curbside Creamery: Ice cream
- Tara’s Organic: Ice cream
- Temescal Brewing: Craft beers
- The Hog’s Apothecary: Craft beers
Jack London Square: Sailors & Saloons
Jack London Square is Oakland’s answer to Fisherman’s Wharf…although, to give credit where credit is due, it’s significantly less busy and touristy than it’s San Franciscan counterpart.
To truly understand just how cool Jack London Square actually is, you need to know a little bit about the man for which it was named: Jack London, novelist and author of The Call of the Wild and White Fang.
Jack London was born in 1876 in San Francisco, and began working at a young age. By the time he was a teenager, he already had many years of experience as a sailor and “tramp” under his belt – his unofficial career title for a few steady years.
Eventually he settled in Oakland and decided to attend high school there. Much of his time was spent studying at Heinold’s First and Last Chance Saloon, a waterfront bar frequented by sailors and fishermen.
In the end, Jack London’s time at Heinold’s proved to be very influential to his career as a novelist (and not just because the bar owner lent him the money he needed to attend college); many of his most famous stories were fueled by the conversations he had with the sailors and adventurers he met there.
More than 100 years later, Heinold’s First and Last Chance Saloon is still a popular spot for a drink (or two) and good conversation…although, thanks to a few earthquakes here and there over the years, the floor is a good bit more slanted than it was when Jack London spent his childhood studying there.
In addition to the rich history surrounding this iconic spot, the beer is good, the bartenders are funny and outgoing, and the decor is quirky and unique – what’s not to love?
Aside from Heinold’s, there are an abundance of breweries, bars, and wineries to enjoy in the Jack London Square and Downtown Oakland areas – many of which offer outdoor seating.
We particularly liked Plank – a massive, laid-back beer garden with string lights, wooden picnic tables, and bocce ball courts – and Drake’s Dealership – an open-air beer garden with plenty of seating, fire pits and heaters (definitely nice to have on a mild-yet-chilly January day).
We didn’t visit, but Forge Pizza also looked like a nice spot for a slice, a drink, and some sunshine.
Where to Stay in Oakland
Derek and I rented a charming and utra-affordable Airbnb in the heart of Oakland’s Temescal district (psst – get $40 off your first Airbnb booking).
This tiny backyard mother-in-law guesthouse was modern, stylish, comfortable, and clean – and best of all, it was conveniently located just off Telegraph Ave, walking distance to all of Temescal’s shops, restaurants, and other hotspots.
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And that’s a wrap for my Oakland travel guide! Have you ever visited the “other” city by the bay?
We never made it to Oakland but it really is cute! Now I’m sad I never made it a priority when we lived out there. And I’m all about a mac-and-cheese restaurant!!
I know exactly what you mean about the time flying and feeling like you havent explored much around you. It’s hard when it’s right there, even though that seems backwards. We had to really focus to make ourselves get out and explore the cities around us, but when you work all week your weekend flies by with chores and other obligations. We saw quite a bit of SoCal but never made it farther north than Solvang by car, besides a 3-day weekend in San Fran by plane; no Yosemite, no redwoods, no Monterey, etc. It was more than we could fit into our two years there!
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To be honest I probably never would have thought of visiting, but my husband suggested it one day on a whim and we booked our trip for the very next day! And yes exactly, so far we’ve never made it further south than Monterey…there’s so much of SoCal I want to see too!
I said it before but I really like the fact that you have decided to visit a new destination in the state every month. It’s something I should really do in my home country as well! Oakland looks like a great place to visit. I was quite surprised to find out that Jack London is actually from California, I always imagined him to be from Alaska or at least somewhere more remote 🙂
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Haha, I know what you mean! He did spend a good bit of time in Alaska, but he got his start in San Francisco and Oakland! He actually died in California, too.
Wish I had read this before my trip to San Francisco or I would have spent more time in Oakland. I guess there’s next time. Thanks for the wonderful information
Always a tough decision about how to spend your time, because San Francisco is obviously amazing too! But yes, next time 😀