“In a hole in the ground there lived a hobbit…”
Ever since I first read these iconic opening lines at the impressionable age of ten, I have been absolutely enchanted by the fictional universe dreamt up by J.R.R. Tolkien. Over the years, I’ve reread The Hobbit and rewatched the movies in The Lord of the Rings trilogy more times than I can count.
I’ve been awed by Rivendell and mesmerized by Mirkwood, but ultimately the Shire is the region that has stirred my imagination the most over the years.
Oh, to be a hobbit! To have a cozy little hobbit hole to call my own, with a fireplace and books and bread and wine and comfortable seating. To live in a bucolic, peaceful place where daily life centers around eating and socializing and being merry. It sounds quite wonderful, doesn’t it?
When I began planning our New Zealand trip, I knew that visiting Hobbiton Movie Set was a non-negotiable item to add to my itinerary. But that alone wasn’t enough; I wanted to have the single most hobbit-y experience it was possible for a person to have…
I wanted to stay in a hobbit hole in New Zealand.
And when my research lead me to Underhill Valley, located just a 45 minute drive from Hobbiton Movie Set, I knew that I had found the perfect place to live out my lifelong hobbit dreams.
Our day of pretending to be hobbits started with the 8:00am tour of Hobbiton Movie Set. From there, we bid farewell to Matamata and hopped in the car for our short drive to the city of Hamilton. We spent an hour and a half walking around the Hamilton Gardens, which ended up being the perfect add-on to our day of fantasy and whimsy.
After a delicious lunch at The Chili House in downtown Hamilton, we stopped by a local cafe (Koko) to grab some freshly baked goods before making our way to Underhill Valley to check in. We also picked up cheese, crackers, and wine from a grocery store along the way. Finally, it was time to check in!
Welcome to Underhill Valley: The Coziest Hobbit Hole Accommodation in New Zealand
Underhill Valley is a one-of-a-kind, hobbit-style “cave house” built into the hillside of a working farm in the heart of New Zealand’s Waikato District. Every last detail of this secret hideaway has been thoughtfully designed and lovingly hand crafted by the farm’s owners.
Arriving to Underhill Valley is like stepping into the pages of a fairytale: from the elaborate stonework to the handcrafted iron fittings, and from the heavy timber doors to the dozens of flickering candles, it truly felt as if we had been transported back to the Medieval era…or perhaps to the Shire itself.
From the moment we arrived, I was spellbound. My senses were overwhelmed with the magic and beauty of this unique little hideaway, and I didn’t know where to look first.
The luxurious round bed piled with fur blankets and pillows, à la Game of Thrones? The kitchen that appeared to have been pulled straight out of the Middle Ages? The clawfoot bathtub outside?
Or perhaps the grounds…? Oh my goodness, the grounds.
As magical as the interior of the cave house is, the grounds are what really make it possible to imagine that you’ve been swept off to a real-life Shire.
The setting is pastoral and idyllic…to be expected, I suppose, considering that Underhill Valley is situated on a working farm. The centerpiece of the property is a peaceful pond, framed by lush green foliage and lilies floating in the water.
An overgrown willow hangs dramatically over the pond, and sits nestled against an enchanting wooden bridge. On the other side of the bridge, a handful of lawn games beckon.
What Is It Like to Stay at Underhill Valley?
So, what is it actually like to stay in a hobbit hole in New Zealand? In a word: peaceful.
From the moment we checked in at 4:00 PM to the moment we fell asleep that night, we reveled in the magic of a simple lifestyle. With no power and no wifi, we were immersed in a true off-the-grid digital detox…and it was splendid.
We kicked off our stay by exploring the small fenced-in area that would be our home until the next morning: we strolled around the gardens, wandered across the little wooden bridge, and poked our heads into the surprisingly luxurious detached bathroom.
Once we felt sufficiently settled in, it was time to fully embrace the hobbit lifestyle…”and that means comfort,” as Tolkien himself famously proclaimed.
A large part of our afternoon was spent sunning ourselves on the wooden deck overlooking the pond. We sipped Southfärthing Säckville Cider from the Green Dragon Inn as we listened to The Hobbit audiobook and watched ducks swim in the pond, sending ripples across the otherwise still water.
As cotton-ball clouds drifted overhead and the leaves of the willow tree rustled in the wind and grazed the surface of the pond, I soaked in every drop of bliss. This was hobbit living, and I was savoring each second of it.
Later, we migrated inside to prepare a simple charcuterie plate of cheese, cured meat, and crackers. We also opened up a bottle of New Zealand Pinot Noir.
While we snacked and sipped, we passed the time by playing a few rounds of chess. One game turned into two, and two turned into three, and three turned into four…
Derek beat me every time, but it didn’t matter; all that mattered was that we had good food, good wine, good company, and good fun. Simple things. Important things. Hobbit things.
We had enough snacks, treats, and beverages to keep us full, but cooking at Underhill Valley is also an option. The old coal range is the perfect place to whip up a hearty hobbit dinner, or guests can cook outdoors using the gas BBQ.
As the sun sank lower in the western sky, I struck a match and lit each of the candles in the little cave house one by one, starting with the wax-coated candelabra on the table. We pulled the heavy timber doors shut, curled up on the round bed, and laid there in each other’s arms, surrounded by a sea of flickering candles.
It was cozy, romantic, and enchanting…everything you could want in a fairytale ending to a fairytale day.
Before bed, I rinsed off the dust and sweat from the day in the detached “wash cave,” AKA shower. Surprisingly, this was one of the most magical moments of the entire day.
With two lone candles illuminating the space and the stars visible outside the little window, it felt like I was showering in some sort of enchanted cavern.
Essential Things to Know Before Booking a Stay at Underhill Valley
1. Underhill Valley is a “glamping” accommodation. Glamping = glamorous + camping.
Although it has elements of luxury, it’s definitely a very rustic place. Here’s the breakdown:
“Glamorous”: Enchanting handcrafted architectural details; fur blankets and pillows; comfortable bed; large rainwater shower with hot water; linens and towels provided; hand soap and body wash provided; kitchenware for preparing and serving food; beautiful vases of flowers; dozens of candles for lighting.
“Camping”: No power; no wifi; no refrigerator (there is a cooler or “chilly box,” however); compost/non-flush toilet; farm smells on the way in (you pass through the fields to get to the cave house); expect to see some bugs, including possibly a few inside.
2. Underhill Valley is a place you go to relax and unwind—not a place you go for adventure and excitement.
Think like a hobbit! During our stay here we sat in sunshine, looked at the sky and the water, talked, played board games, read, listened to audiobooks, snacked, and drank cider and wine.
If that sounds boring to you…well, you might get bored here! You can decide to lean into the unfamiliar feeling of disconnecting and slowing down, or you can decide that this type of experience probably isn’t a good fit for you. Just be sure to arrive with realistic expectations.
3. Underhill Valley is a family-built and family-owned property.
The owners of Underhill Valley are Jessie and Craig Moon. The cave house was dreamed up and designed by Jessie’s father, Graham. He and his family put in many years of hard work building the property, and finished it around 2001.
For years, Underhill Valley served as a closely-guarded secret hideaway for family and friends—until Jessie decided she wanted to share her father’s creativity by opening up the doors to the rest of the world.
The exact location of Underhill Valley will be kept secret until four days before your stay, when Jessie will send you the address along with check-in details.
You’ll likely meet both Jessie and Craig during your stay; one of them will be there to greet you and transport you (and your belongings) via golf cart down a dusty farm path to Underhill Valley. One of them will also be there to pick you up at your agreed-upon check-out time.
Pin It!
Have you ever dreamed of staying in a hobbit hole in New Zealand? Is Underhill Valley someplace you would like to stay one day? What is the most unique, whimsical, or memorable accommodation you’ve stayed in?
This looks beautiful and something I need to experience especially after the pandemic situation…