San Miguel de Allende is a historic city in Mexico’s colonial heartland, and a destination I’d had my eye on for a loooong time before finally making my way there in June. The first photo I saw of the city’s hilly cobblestone streets and baroque Spanish architecture set my imagination on fire, and I knew in a heartbeat that I needed to visit someday.

After finally traveling there for myself, I’m happy to report that San Miguel de Allende is much more than just colonial eye candy; it’s a cultural hub with a thriving arts scene, incredible cuisine, and far too many treasures for me to uncover in my three days there.

A typical day for me in San Miguel went something like this:

• Wake up early to explore the maze of cobblestone alleyways, and snap photos of the colorful buildings while the city is still sleepy, calm, and bathed in soft morning light.
• Watch as the streets wake up and come to life around 10am, with galleries, shops, and street food stands opening up. The sound of lively music and the smell of food fill the air, and pedestrians gather in the city center to sightsee and celebrate.
• Spend all afternoon and evening nibbling on small bites in rooftop restaurants, tossing back mezcal cocktails in dive bars, popping into art galleries, and people-watching in the main square.
• Head back to my incredible apartment above the city and sit on the terrace with a glass of wine as the sun sets, the city lights up, and the sound of music drifts upwards into the hills.
• Snuggle up in bed, doze off to sleep, and get ready to do it all again the next day.

What a life of leisure, eh? To be honest, that theme sort of encapsulates San Miguel de Allende at its core…it’s just such a nice place to visit. The scenery is nice, the weather is nice, the people are ridiculously nice – it’s just, ahhh. A pleasant, happy little gem of a place, all around!

I ended up chatting with one the local artists (Michael Tolleson Robles) in his gallery one day, and to paraphrase what he had to say about life in San Miguel de Allende: “I’m autistic, I’m gay, I’m half-Mexican…and nobody cares. That’s the best part about living here; it’s a very nurturing, friendly place where you can be yourself.”

He then proceeded to hand me his business card, and told me to call him if I ever needed help or advice during my stay in the city. And this type of behavior wasn’t uncommon whatsoever – I don’t think I’ve ever interacted with such friendly and welcoming locals, expats, and fellow visitors on my travels before….anywhere. Ever.

…I’m telling you, there’s something special about San Miguel, guys. Maybe it’s in the air?

Anyways, aside from soaking in the beautiful sights and revelling in the peaceful, good-natured atmosphere, here’s what you can expect to get up to in SMA:

Things to Do in San Miguel de Allende

People-Watch & Admire the Architecture in El Jardin

El Jardin is the heart and soul of San Miguel; it’s the city’s main plaza, and where allll the action revolves around. Start your exploring here, and you really can’t go wrong.

This shady square is a hub for activity, with street vendors selling souvenirs, ice cream, sliced fruit, and other foods. Mariachi music always seems to be within earshot, which brings a lively and festive atmosphere to the plaza.

Families push strollers along the sidewalk, teenagers hold hands and cuddle, elderly grandmothers gather and gossip, and children chase pigeons around the square.

Grab a seat on one of the wrought-iron benches, and just soak it all in. The ambience is unbeatable!

The primary focal point of El Jardin is La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, a neo-Gothic church known for its unique coral color and towering spires. It stands tall and proud above the city, like San Miguel’s shining pink crown jewel.

The inside is equally magnificent and ornate, with incredible architectural design and beautiful religious artwork. As someone who’s not-religious-but-sorta-sometimes-spiritual, there’s just something about being in these old Catholic cathedrals that puts my heart and mind at ease.

Maybe it’s the quiet stillness of the air, maybe its the soft smell of candles and dust, or maybe it’s simply the result of taking a brief moment to pause and reflect – but whatever it is, spending time in cathedrals always reminds me of the purest, best intentions and values of the world’s religions.

Get Lost in the Maze of Colorful Colonial Streets

While El Jardin is top-tier for people-watching and seeing the main sights, San Miguel de Allende is absolutely the type of place where you should let yourself get “lost.”

I’ve put that in quotes because to be honest, getting truly “lost” isn’t really an option. The city isn’t very big, and finding your way back to the main plaza is a breeze, since the streets are laid out as a mostly-straight grid.

If you start in El Jardin and slowly work your way out towards the steep hills and outskirts of town, you’ll stumble across an endless number of eye-catching colonial-era homes, colorful streets and alleys, and enchanting doorways just waiting to be discovered.

I recommend stashing your phone in your purse or backpack, and promising yourself that you won’t take it out (expect to snap some photos) so you’re not tempted to check your maps app and see where you are.

Just wander, and see where your feet take you. I promise, it’s so worth it.

There’s so much more to see and experience than the well-known scenic streets and squares in the center of the city – go out and see for yourself what I mean!

Peruse the City’s 100+ Art Galleries

San Miguel de Allende is known around the globe for its art scene, and it all dates back to 1937 when a young American artist arrived to the then-desolate town and decided to stick around. Over the years, a growing number of sculptors, painters, and other creatives have flocked to San Miguel, until the city eventually became what it is today: an international hub for art.

Rumor has it that there are now more than a hundred art galleries in San Miguel de Allende. During my stay, I originally planned to jot down the names of all the studios and showrooms I visited. But after being ushered in and out of dozens of galleries within my first day alone, I quickly lost track.

One spot that I highly recommend checking out is the Galeria San Francisco, which is conveniently located in El Jardin and features the work of several expat artists. I was absolutely enchanted by the sculptures and metalwork of Susan Fiori, as well as the mixed media paintings of Susan Santiago.

Of course, the art was WAY too expensive (for my budget) to even entertain the idea of purchasing a piece of my own, but it was so fun to browse.

Another popular spot to visit is the Fabrica La Aurora, an old fabric factory-turned-arts-center. There are an overwhelming number of galleries to explore…though if I’m honest, I left feeling a little “meh” about the whole experience.

Personally, I felt the art in the city center (like Galeria San Francisco) had more character, and was more unique to SMA.

Crash a Wedding

Okay, not really. But in San Miguel, there’s no need – the weddings will come to you, right on the streets of the city! Brides, grooms, their wedding parties, and all the guests will dance through the streets to celebrate their nuptials.

They’ll often be trailed by donkeys carrying flowers, a mariachi band, and most notably the iconic Mojigangas – gigantic paper mâché puppets worn by dancers. The entire event is celebratory, vibrant, colorful, loud, and oh so fun…and if you’re lucky, you might see four or more of these weddings parades in a single day!

Shop at the Mercado de Artesanias

If you’re on the hunt for artisan Mexican crafts made from blown glass, wool, brass, and paper mâché, you’re sure to find exactly what you’re looking for at Mercado de Artesanias.

The fact that I stumbled across this market was a happy accident, but I was amazed by the quantity of goods available to purchase. It’s cute and colorful, and definitely worth a quick stroll through – even if you’re not planning to buy.

Where to Eat & Drink in San Miguel de Allende

Lavanda Cafe

If you only have time for one breakfast in San Miguel de Allende, make it Lavanda Cafe. Just a few steps away from EL Jardin, this charming eatery may be small in size, but they sure know how to deliver big flavors.

I ordered the cazuela: a bowl of thin-sliced potatoes and mushrooms cooked with cheese and a slightly-spicy chili sauce, topped with roasted tomatoes, bacon, and a fried egg. I also added avocado!

In the case the description alone hasn’t convinced you, it was ridiculously good! I also ordered a sweet, floral-flavored lavender latte. Mmmmm. Guys, this breakfast was the real deal.

As a bonus, the courtyard sitting area was so peaceful and nice for first thing in the morning! Be sure to arrive early, because it can busy during the later breakfast and brunch hours.

San Agustin Chocolates & Churros

This well-known establishment makes the “must try” list for many travelers who visit San Miguel de Allende, and it’s not surprising why…it’s all in the name!

The churro and hot chocolate menu is surprisingly extensive; you can get your churros plain or filled, and served with a variety of styles of creamy hot chocolate. I ordered the Espana: extra thick, slightly less-sweet hot chocolate with three standard churros.

Dip, swirl, eat and repeat!

Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar

Elegant and picturesque, Luna is one of San Miguel de Allende’s most iconic and sophisticated bars. Nestled on the rooftop of the Rosewood Hotel, you’ll be treated to sweeping views of the entire city, with the pastel spires of La Parroquia as the focal point.

The Limonada Allende (a mezcal cocktail) was refreshing and a bit spicy, and paired perfectly with the appetizer of chips and guacamole I ordered. I hear sunset is the prime time to visit, when that sweet golden glow is cast over the terracotta rooftops.

That said, I opted to visit at an off-time, around 2:30pm. Solo travelers often get the short end of the stick when it comes to bar and restaurant seating, and I was determined to snag a spot with a fantastic view. But hey, it’s always 5 o’clock somewhere! No regrets here 😉

QUINCE

This popular rooftop bar (are you sensing a theme here in San Miguel?) is known for its lively ambience and attractive, youthful clientele. Its trendy reputation ensures that it stays busy; even as a solo patron, I had to wait for around 20 minutes for a seat at the bar during an off-time (granted, it was a Saturday).

Squeezed in at the small bar, my view was probably one of the worst in the house…but even so, I had a small sliver of the city in my peripheral, and the amazing atmosphere more than made up for any lack of scenery. Visualize friendly, happy people, good music, and great drinks (and I hear the food is excellent too) and you’ve got a pretty accurate representation of Quince.

My cocktail – the Tequila Tart – was absolutely divine. Tequila with combination of passionfruit and grapefruit, a splash of sparkling water, and a hibiscus salt rim. Sooo tasty…and this coming from the gal who hates tequila!

I ended up chatting with a guy from Guadalajara who was in town for the weekend, which turned into one of my favorite conversations from my whole trip. I LIVE for these moments of solo travel.

Yes, it can be a bit uncomfortable rolling up to a bar by yourself, but I often end up meeting so many cool people that I’d likely never interact with if I was with my husband or my friends. And that’s pretty cool!

El Manantial

This little hole-in-the-wall cantina was the first place I had dinner and drinks when I arrived to San Miguel de Allende. I ended up there out of pure convenience, since it was just a short walk down from my Airbnb.

But I loved it so much, I went back for a round two a few nights later! Over the course of my two visits there, I tried three of their tostadas: the ceviche, the ahi tuna, and the chipotle shrimp.

All were amazing, and for once I’m not sure I can pick a favorite. Plus, I fell in love with the ultra-cool, laid-back atmosphere and friendly staff. It’s a bit of an uphill hike for anyone staying near the center of town, but so worth every step.

La Chula

A true dive bar, La Chula certainly wasn’t a spot that was on my radar when I arrived in San Miguel. But when I was running late to find a place to watch Mexico’s World Cup match versus South Korea, I realized I was super short on options. My first choice, Mama Mia, was already so packed that they wouldn’t even let me inside the building!

I heard the game commentary drifting down from La Chula’s rooftop bar as I frantically roamed around the streets, and decided to go for it. The scene that greeted me was a bit of a surprise: the bar was tiny, packing in around 25 people or so, and the TV setup looked like something they had brought from home and assembled just that morning.

But the atmosphere was festive and fun, and they had cheap Dos Equis and beef tacos (a hearty breakfast indeed). In the end, this morning turned into one of my favorite memories from my time in Mexico! Even though I’m not a huge soccer fan, I had a blast.

There was so much chanting, cheering, and singing, and the people watching the game there actually included me and made me feel like I was part of the celebrations. Watching Mexico win the match was the sweet, sweet cherry on top.

Beautiful views, beautiful weather, beautiful people, and beautiful moments…is it any wonder San Miguel de Allende completely stole my heart? I’m already dreaming of my return visit…

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What’s the prettiest city YOU have ever visited? I have a weak spot for beautiful places, so I’d love to hear all about it!

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