Mayan ruins perched above the Caribbean Sea; crystal clear cenotes beckoning for you to dive on in; airy beach bars with thatched roofs and wooden swings; roadside stands serving up matcha and smoothie bowls; gorgeous eco-friendly resorts by the sea; retro-inspired mezcal bars in the jungle…

Welcome to Tulum.

This small town less than two hours south of the Cancun airport had been on my bucket list for a long, long time. For years I had dreamed of discovering Tulum’s many treasures; of exploring the sandy coastline, dense jungle and cool blue cenotes.

And finally I was able to cross it off my list when one of my best girl friends called me up and asked if I was down to plan a spontaneous girls trip with her at the end of May. Um, YES? Count me in!

Believe it or not, this was my first time traveling with a friend (I typically fly solo or travel with Derek). And for this type of girls getaway, I think Tulum was a great choice.

Getting Oriented: Tulum Overview

Tulum has two main areas of interest to visitors: the town itself, and the beach road – a long, straight road with jungle on one side and the beach on the other (although you can’t actually see the ocean from the road).

Both areas have accommodation and restaurants, though the beach road is considered the more “happening” area. That said, if you’re looking for modern comforts, you may be better off in town; A/C can be scarce and very limited at the hotels along the beach.

We ended up booking a room at Coco Tulum, which for us was in the perfect location along the beach road. It’s very centrally located, making it easy to walk to restaurants and bars in either direction. Of course, you can always grab a taxi for further distances, too.

For travelers who aren’t already familiar with Tulum, it might surprise you to learn just how trendy it is. In fact, my friend even commented at one point that she had never traveled somewhere quite so “Instagrammable,” and neither have I.

Tulum is the kind of place where you’ll find smoothie bowls, cold brew coffee, and kombucha every few meters; where you don’t have to look for long to find a new yoga studio, spa, vegan restaurant, or boho-chic boutique.

Of course, the stifling heat, humidity, and persistent mosquitoes buzzing around your ankles will be quick to remind you that in spite of the trendiness and “cool factor,” you’re still in rural Mexico.

And while exploring the beach road was fun, the majority of my favorite things to do in Tulum took place outside of the central hub. Here’s what I recommend as the “must sees” for anyone visiting Tulum:

Tulum Ruins

Among the best-preserved and most well-known ruins in Mexico are the Tulum ruins…and with good reason.

Perched on a rocky bluff overlooking the turquoise Caribbean Sea, these ruins were once a majestic walled city built and inhabited by the Maya sometime around 1200 AD. Once known as “Zama” or “City of Dawn” (due to its eastern-facing position), Tulum reached its peak between the 13th and 15th centuries, and was once the home of more than a thousand people.

Fun fact: these ruins were once painted gorgeous shades of yellow, red, blue, and white. Can you even imagine? It must have been so beautiful!

It also fascinates me to think about what life must have been like for the people who lived in this city so many centuries ago. As I walked among the ruins, I couldn’t help but imagine a day in the life of a 26-year old Maya woman in Tulum in 1400 AD, and wonder what her experiences and feelings must have been like as she wandered those very same paths.

Thinking about it honestly gives me chills.

On that note, one of the most valuable lessons I’ve learned from visiting historic sites like this one over the years is to really let yourself live in the moment.

Don’t just go through the motions of viewing the major points of interests; really think about what you’re looking at, ask questions, let your mind wander and paint a picture before your eyes. I promise, your experience will be much more enjoyable!

The major points of interest at the Tulum site include:

• El Castillo (the tallest, most central structure)
• The Temple of the God of Wind (right next to the water, featured in many of Tulum’s most iconic photos)
• The Temple of the Frescoes (once used as an observatory)
• The Temple of the Descending God (note the carved figure that appears to be diving, feet in the air)

Tips for visiting the Tulum ruins:

• Arrive early! Ideally a few minutes before 8am, when the park opens. The grounds were nearly empty when we arrived, which made exploring very peaceful and enjoyable. By the time we left around 9:45, the tour groups and visitors had multiplied dramatically. Plus, the weather was nice and cool first thing in the morning.
• When you’re first entering the ruins, you’ll have the option to pass through the first gate you come to. Keep going – there’s a second entry gate up ahead with much more stunning views of the whole complex.
• Skip the guided tour; there are signs everywhere explaining (in both English and Spanish) what you’re looking at and the history of each site. You’ll enjoy having the freedom and flexibility to roam around as you wish.
• Keep an eye out for the multitude of iguanas and colorful birds. The wildlife you can stumble across here is amazing!

Gran Cenote

Swimming in a cenote was at the top of my bucket list for this trip to Tulum, and Gran (or Grand) Cenote certainly didn’t disappoint.

This expansive underground cave system is open to visitors who can swim in the cool turquoise waters among the rock walls, caverns, stalactites, and vines that dangle from the trees above.

The water is exceptionally clear, as the cenotes are filled with rainwater that has been slowly filtered through the ground over time. This means excellent visibility for divers, snorkelers, and swimmers alike.

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If the water is too chilly for you, grab a seat in the sun on one of the wooden planks surrounding the cenote and watch the baby turtles and other creatures swim past until you’re ready to jump in and cool off.

Even from dry land the cenotes are captivating; the water quite literally sparkles and shimmers in the sunlight, like a brilliant liquid sapphire.

Tips for Visiting Gran Cenote:

• As we did with the ruins, we arrived a few minutes before the park’s 8:10am opening time to beat the crowds. Which certainly paid off – my friend and I were the 4th and 5th people in the park!
• There’s actually more than one swimming area to explore, which many people don’t notice at first glance. From the stairs leading down to the main cavern swimming area, head right and hop in the water – you’ll see an opening with light on the other side that you can swim to (the ceiling is low but the opening is really wide). Alternatively, walk across the property towards another set of stairs and you’ll see it. This second spot was much less busy!
• Lockers are available to rent; they were 30 pesos when we visited.

Dos Ojos Cenotes

Dos Ojos (“Two Eyes”) Cenote is one of the most famed underwater cave systems in the world, especially among scuba divers. But you don’t need to be a diver to experience the magic and beauty of Dos Ojos; whether you’re there to snorkel or just to swim, it won’t take long for you to fall under this incredible cenote’s spell.

As the name implies, the defining feature of Dos Ojos is the two large cenotes connecting the main underwater cavern, which appear like two deep-blue eyes gazing up from the earth.

Although Gran Cenote was more open and light-filled, I actually preferred Dos Ojos in the end. Something about swimming in the darker sapphire and aquamarine water with the cave ceiling and stalactites above was just incredible and surreal.

We also got very lucky with the fact that no one else was around, despite the fact that it was 10am when we arrived.

Having the entire cavern to ourselves while swimming was an experience I tried so hard to burn into my permanent memory. I remember closing my eyes while floating in the water and thinking to myself, “never forget this moment; never forget the way the chilly water feels against your skin, the way the air smells earthy and pure, the way the cave itself looks so dark and untouched and mysterious.”

It was that special.

Tips for Visiting Dos Ojos Cenote

• This cenote is located deep in the jungle, along a bumpy, rocky, pothole-filled dirt road. When you arrive to the park entrance, you’ll hop out of the taxi (or your car) to purchase tickets at the main building. Then you’ll get back in the car to continue your drive down the road, passing several other cenotes along the way.
• Dos Ojos is extremely popular among divers and snorkelers, who will head into the deeper cave areas and leave the main cavern open. If there’s a large group getting into the water when you arrive, wait it out – once they’re all settled in the water, they should head off for their tour and you’ll have the swimming area to yourself!

Grab a Coffee & Shop Along Beach Road

Tulum’s beach road is a wonderland for lovers of all things hippie and bohemian. My recommendation? Grab a coffee from one of the cafes or stands (my vote is for Matcha Mama, mmm) and then let your feet carry you as far as they’ll go.

Along the way, you’ll pass gorgeous hotels, restaurants, and plenty of trendy boutiques selling art, clothing, purses, jewelry, and more. The shops along Tulum’s beach road definitely skew very “beatnik flower child,” with lots of sheer flowy dresses, woven purses with tassels, and handmade pieces.

Just to be clear, I didn’t purchase a single item from any of the boutiques in Tulum…primarily because they were out of this world expensive. I mean, $300 for a handmade purse? That looks nearly identical to the one I bought online for $20?

Ehh, I get the value of unique handmade pieces, but that’s gonna be a no from me dawg.

Eats and Drinks

If there’s one area where Tulum really knocks it out of the park (…y’know, aside from the otherworldly cenotes and beautifully preserved ruins) it’s the food.

Rustic shacks with smoothie bowls and raw foods, retro-inspired mezcal bars in the jungle, boho beach bars with thatched roofs and wooden swings, laid back eateries with tacos and cervezas…take your pick, it’s all there.

In fact, I have SO much to say about Tulum’s food scene that I’m in the process of writing an entire guide dedicated to it. So for now, I’ll keep it short – just know that you can easily stay entertained for a week straight checking out all of the fabulous places to eat around Tulum.

A Disclaimer About Tulum

While overall I certainly had fun in Tulum, I always want to be honest with my readers…and that means sharing the not-so-pleasant truths about my travels as well as the highlights.

The thing is, something about Tulum just didn’t quite sit right with me…and I think a lot of it has to do with the fact that it actually seemed a bit too trendy and “built for Instagram” – sort of like a beachy, boho, eco-chic version of Dubai or Disneyland.

Harsh, I know.

It’s funny, because everyone seems to talk about Tulum as if it’s some sort of backpacker’s paradise…and I guess compared to nearby places like Cancun and Playa del Carmen, it is.

But while you won’t find mega resorts, all-inclusives, and wild nightclubs here, it’s certainly not untouched. And the hotels and restaurants seem just as out of sync with Mexican culture and built to appeal to tourists as they do in Cancun, just in a different way.

It’s almost as if everyone and everyplace in Tulum tries a liiiittle too hard to be perfectly free-spirited and hip (Kombucha! Yoga! Acai!) while simultaneously – somehow – lacking any real character or depth. Things were beautiful there, but that’s all they were.

…Which probably sounds really hypocritical, because after all – I did have fun there. I did take cutesy “look at me I’m a gypsy flower child” photos on the swings. I did consume kombucha and matcha and $20 mezcal cocktails…on more than one occasion.

Then again, I had fun in Vegas, too…and everyone knows how authentic, cultured, and down-to-earth that experience is, right? (I hope you see where I’m going with this)

I think part of the problem also stems from knowing just how rapidly Tulum has changed over the years. My dad visited Tulum in the 80’s, and his recollections make it sound like he’s describing a completely different destination.

Dirt roads, almost zero hotels or restaurants around, paying $3/night for a place to sleep (or simply sleeping in hammocks on the beach), rinsing off in a cenote because the showers barely worked anyways, cheap tacos and seafood fresh from the ocean…now THAT sounds like an adventure. That’s the Tulum I wish I could still experience today.

And from what I’ve been told by other travelers, this was still true well after the 80s. Even five years ago, Tulum was a dramatically different place than it is today. I guess this is exactly what people mean when they describe the “dark side” of tourism, which makes me feel guilty and conflicted because aren’t I – aren’t all travelers, and especially bloggers – part of the problem?

Just, ugh.

So for those reasons, my visit to Tulum left me with some very mixed feelings that I’m still trying to unpack. But do I want to discourage anyone from visiting Tulum? Not at all.

If you’ve read this whole thing and now feel a sinking feeling in your stomach because you’ve always wanted to visit Tulum and I’ve squashed your dreams, then please – feel free to ignore everything I’ve written above. Seriously.

Every person on this planet is unique, and has unique interests, likes, dislikes, triggers, and ways of perceiving the world around them. Just because I didn’t absolutely love every last detail about Tulum doesn’t mean you won’t. You very well might!

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Have you ever visited Tulum? What was your impression of it, or what was your favorite thing that you saw or did? Have you ever visited someplace that you felt was a little too “built for Instagram,” like how I felt about Tulum?

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