You’re driving down the California coast, hugging every curve of the twisting, winding highway. On one side of the narrow roadway is a steep rock wall dotted with sparse greenery, towering above you. On the other, a cliff with a sharp drop-off that plunges down into the majestic, powerful, endless Pacific Ocean.
You drive through redwood forests and over historic bridges, darting through patches of fog and chasing glimmers of golden sunlight. It occurs to you that you haven’t seen a restaurant, storefront, hotel, rest stop, or gas station for miles and miles…maybe not since Monterey. All of the while, the crashing blue waves of the Pacific are right there below you, ravaging the rocky shores.
Welcome to Big Sur, California.
To say that Big Sur is unlike any place I’ve ever been before is both a cliche and an understatement. It’s enchanting, woodsy, rustic, retro, and nostalgic all at once. Amenities are limited; you won’t find chain hotels, resorts, or hostels here, but rather a collection of campgrounds, log cabins, inns, and lodges, with a smattering of luxury options perched among the cliffs.
Similarly, the dining options tend to fall into one of two categories: casual family-friendly eateries, or upscale restaurants where patrons are willing to splurge for the picturesque views and strong cocktails.
What else will you find in Big Sur? Not much – a very slim selection of gas stations and convenience stores, a handful of art galleries and gift shops, and not a single trace of cell service. And that’s about it!
…Well, aside from the breathtaking, unspoiled California coastline, that is. And surely that’s what you came here for?
Best of all, Big Sur is a place where you can choose your own adventure.
Fancy a hike through the redwoods, with the soft afternoon light filtering through the ancient trees?
How about a leisurely walk along the bluffs, where you can watch the mist and fog roll in with the tide and shroud the landscape in mystery?
Maybe a picnic on a deserted stretch of beach, where you can keep an eye out for humpback whales on the blue horizon?
Or perhaps a moonlit soak in a hot tub, with a glass of white wine in hand and the sound of waves crashing and sea lions barking in the distance?
Because of the incredible natural diversity of this region, you can experience all of this and more in Big Sur.
Whether you want to camp under the stars with s’mores and cheap beers, cozy up in a kitschy lodge, stay in a rustic cabin among the redwoods, or splash out for a luxury room with a fireplace, floor-to-ceiling windows, and views of the sea, it’s waiting for you in Big Sur.
It’s important to note that Big Sur is not a single town or national park; it’s an unincorporated area nestled along the coast that spans roughly 70 miles from north to south. Within this region are multiple state parks, natural preserves, beaches, and hiking trails, all linked by the iconic Highway 1.
That’s 70 miles of hair-raising twists and turns along a two-lane road, just feet from rocky cliffs that tumble down into the water below…and many stretches of this highway lack guardrails. They all lack street-lamps and stoplights.
Without making a single stop, driving through the entirety of Big Sur will take you approximately two hours – and trust me when I say that you will want to make stops…many of them. There’s a reason the drive down Highway 1 is so iconic!
For that reason, I highly recommend spending the night in Big Sur during your road trip down the California coast…better yet, two nights.
If that’s not an option, you should at least dedicate one full day to slowly driving through and exploring Big Sur’s hidden gems. Trust me when I say that this is a place that simply should not be rushed.
Regardless of how long you have, this Big Sur travel guide will show you the best hiking areas, beaches, restaurants, and accommodations in Big Sur. And if you’re one the lucky ducks who’s able to stick around a while, then be sure to check out my 2 Day Big Sur Itinerary, too!
The Ultimate Big Sur Travel Guide: Jump to a Section
- Itinerary: Day 1
- Itinerary: Day 2
- Hiking in Big Sur
- Beaches in Big Sur
- Other Activities in Big Sur
- Where to Eat & Drink in Big Sur
- Where to Stay in Big Sur
Big Sur 2-Day Itinerary
Note: I created this “Two Days in Big Sur Itinerary” based on the assumption that readers will be traveling from north to south. However, the activities and recommendations will not be affected if you are traveling the opposite way, as they are all located in the same general area. Just know that I’ve written about many of the landmarks in a north-to-south order.
Day One
Assuming ideal traffic conditions, the drive from San Francisco down to the start of Big Sur (using Andrew Molera State Park as the end point) will take around 2 hours and 40 minutes. This is also assuming you won’t make any stops before that point…which you likely will!
To be safe, I would estimate upwards of 3 hours from San Francisco, 2.5 hours from San Jose, and 1 – 1.5 hours from Monterey or Carmel-By-The-Sea. The total time also depends on how deep into Big Sur you’re heading; our stay at Treebones added nearly an extra hour to the trip, as it’s much further south and accessed via slow, windy coastal roads.
But, not to worry! Once you reach the area around Monterey and Carmel, you’ll be treated to incredible ocean scenery as you continue your drive.
One of the first landmarks you’ll pass as you make your way south towards Big Sur is Bixby Creek Bridge.
Fans of the HBO drama Big Little Lies will recognize this bridge from its appearance on the show, but it was well-known before that thanks to its unique design and gorgeous setting. There’s tons of parking available near the bridge, if you’d like to pull over and snap some photos.
(Note: I recommend parking and taking pictures before driving across to the other side of the bridge.)
From this point onwards, you will likely lose access to cell service…but honestly, who needs to be checking emails or Instagram when you’re surrounded by the natural beauty of Big Sur?!
Continuing along Highway 1, located between Nepethne and Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn is the Henry Miller Memorial Library.
We actually didn’t go inside, although on our next trip to Big Sur (because trust me, this is not a one-and-done type of place) I would absolutely love to.
The Henry Miller Memorial Library is nestled within a scenic grove of redwood trees, but you’ll find more than books here. It serves as a frequent venue for live music and other events, and is apparently an excellent spot to relax with a drink.
As you near Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, prepare to pull over to see the iconic McWay Falls.
The overlook area is located OUTSIDE the park, so there’s no need to pay or enter; plenty of roadside parking is available. Just be careful as you’re pulling in or leaving, especially if you need to parallel park in a tight space – the highway is curved and narrow here.
McWay Falls is an absolutely stunning 80-foot waterfall that drops from a steep cliff straight into a pristine cove. Technically, this makes it a “tidefall” – a waterfall that empties into the ocean.
The combination of rocky cliffs, turquoise water, and powerful waterfall makes for a gorgeous photo-op, but it’s important to note that the beach itself is completely inaccessible.
The only way to view McWay Falls is from the viewpoint off Highway 1. It’s a very short and easy walk from the highway to the overlook area; just a few steps along a dirt path, and you’re there.
By this point, you’ll probably be ready to check into your accommodation.
Note that McWay Falls is roughly 7-12 miles south of the majority of Big Sur’s inns and guesthouses, but still 25 miles north of Treebones (where we stayed). Feel free to shuffle around the order of activities for this day based on where you’re staying, and the time you’d like to check in.
Dinner and drinks is the perfect way to round out your first day in Big Sur – check out my suggestions for places to eat in the section titled “Where to Eat & Drink in Big Sur” below.
Keep in mind that dining in Big Sur can be pricey, and options are limited. But many of the inns and resorts have onsite restaurants, which can be very convenient in a destination this remote and rustic. Plus, you really don’t want to be driving down that twisting highway while even the slightest bit tipsy!
We decided to splurge for the sushi dinner (more on that in a future post) at our accommodation, Treebones, followed by a few glasses of wine at the bar and a quick soak in the hot tub.
We were in bed by 9pm our first night…which believe it or not, isn’t that crazy for Big Sur. Most bars and restaurants will be shut down by 9 or 10pm at the latest, and it gets dark fast.
Bring some games to play, books to read, or booze to drink if you want to stay entertained…or do like the locals and head to bed. Sleep tight!
Day Two
You may be tempted to snooze a little longer in your cozy cabin bed, but Big Sur is the type of place where it’s good to be up with the sun and get an early start to the day!
Feel free to enjoy whatever breakfast is served up at your hotel, though I recommend at least saving some room for a baked goodie from Big Sur Bakery. The cheddar and chive scones were divine, and we also nibbled on a cardamom, pistachio, and dark chocolate tea cake.
Then, it’s time to get acquainted with the activity that Big Sur is best known for: hiking!
Although Big Sur is a huge place, there are really just four main parks where you can hike, and many of the trails are easy to moderate. There are just a handful of lengthy, challenging options for more experienced hikers, all of which are detailed on the state park websites.
I’ve compiled a list of the best places to hike in the section below.
We decided to hike the Bluffs Trail in Andrew Molera State Park. It was an easy trail with nice views of the bluffs and the ocean; just 1.7 miles each way, ending at a small accessible beach.
Having worked up quite the appetite after our hike, we decided to stop in for lunch at Big Sur River Inn.
Hanging out at this popular spot sort of reminds me of grown-up summer camp; it’s nestled among the redwoods, with woodsy decor, a roaring fireplace, kayaks and rubber tubes stacked outside on the lawn, and even a general store on the property.
So maybe…summer camp with beer? Sounds pretty amazing, honestly.
Derek ordered the grilled chicken sandwich on a pretzel roll, and I went with the pulled pork sandwich…and a root beer! There was live music on the day we visited, and if the weather is warm enough you can snag one of the big Adirondack chairs in the river, and relax with a cold beer as the shallow water washes over your feet.
Sounds relaxing, eh? It may surprise you that the next recommendation on this itinerary is more of the same: relaxing!
After spending some time at Big Sur River Inn, we headed back to Treebones to simply sit and soak in the ambience. We ordered wine and cocktails, snuggled up by the fireplace, and spent a loooong time just talking and enjoying the coziness of it all.
Then we played a round of chess, and enjoyed a casual pasta dinner on the property. Truth be told, if you’re not driving, hiking, horseback riding, or doing yoga, there’s not much else to do in Big Sur other than relaxing.
And that’s all a part of the charm!
Play card games or board games, read a book, stare at the cracking fire or majestic Pacific ocean, soak in the hot tub, listen to music, take a nap, snack, drink, talk…just enjoy the experience of having a brief moment of down time in one of the most gorgeous places on the planet. Ahhh.
Note: Feel like something is missing from this itinerary? No worries – I’ve got a long list of alternate suggestions in the sections below! Although the itinerary above is what we followed during our 2 days in Big Sur, there are plenty of other hikes, beaches, restaurants, and other activities that you can enjoy during your visit.
Hiking in Big Sur
I truly believe that when it comes to choosing a hiking trail in Big Sur, you simply can’t go wrong. Whether you want to see majestic redwoods, coastal bluffs, sandy beaches, or all of the above, you’ll be treated to breathtaking views and natural scenery.
Surprisingly, the quantity of easy, short (1-4 miles) trails far outnumbers the lengthy, strenuous ones. However, you can find a few trails in the 8-10 mile range as well.
All of the state parks below offer multiple hiking trails; I’ve listed them from north to south. You can see which trails are currently open, their difficulty levels, and total mileage on the park websites.
(Mile 51) Andrew Molera State Park: Roughly 20 total miles of trails that pass through redwoods, meadows, bluffs, and beaches. For hikers seeking something a bit longer, try the 8.7 mile Ridge Trail / Panorama Trail / Bluff Trail Loop.
(Mile 47) Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park: Offers a number of shorter trails, ranging from 0.5 to 3 miles. There is also one 8-mile roundtrip trail. Explore redwoods, rivers, and overlooks, but note that there is no beach or ocean access at all within the park.
(Mile 36) Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park: Unfortunately, many of the trails are currently closed in this park. But you’ll want to stop here anyways for the iconic McWay Falls Overlook. Note that there is no beach or ocean access at all within the park.
(Mile 21) Limekiln State Park: A leisurely 0.5 mile walk leads you to the historic limekilns; the remainder of the trails (just 2.3 miles in total) will lead you through shady redwoods and past babbling brooks.
Beaches in Big Sur
Personally, I don’t consider Big Sur a traditionally “beachy” location. Yes, there are beaches there…but because of the steep, rocky cliffs, many of the state parks have no beach access whatsoever, and getting down the beaches can be tricky and inconvenient.
Not to mention that the weather can be chilly and gray (even in the summertime) and the currents are rough and powerful. That said, I do think strolling along the beaches in the area can be nice…provided you have a windbreaker or a cozy sweater!
Below are two of the most popular beaches in Big Sur:
(Mile 46) Pfeiffer Beach: Considered one of the “must visit” destinations within Big Sur, this beach is best known for its purple-tinted sand. Reportedly, this is caused by the manganese garnet rocks in the cliffs surrounding the beach.
(Mile 14) Sand Dollar Beach: If you’re looking for the longest stretch of sand in Big Sur, look no further than Sand Dollar Beach. With picnic tables and BBQs, this is one of the most recommended beaches for families in the area.
Other Activities in Big Sur
Art Galleries in Big Sur
Yoga in Big Sur
- Yoga at Treebones Resort – Morning and afternoon classes available, as well as private sessions. There are also several yoga retreats scheduled for 2019.
- Yoga Retreats at the Esalen Institute – They also host various other art, movement, creativity, meditation, and healing workshops.
Outdoor Activities in Big Sur
- Kayak, Bike, or Paddleboard Rentals from Adventures by the Sea (in Monterey)
- Chaparral Ranch Horseback Riding (in Monterey)
- Randy’s Whale Watching (in Monterey)
Where to Eat & Drink in Big Sur
Disclaimer: Dining out in Big Sur isn’t cheap. A basic burger and French fries combo is likely to run you $15 or more, even at the family restaurants.
But hey, what other option do you have? You pay for convenience out here, and local restaurants know that. It’s your choice: BYOB ramen noodles, drive 1-2 hours for cheaper options outside of Big Sur, or throw in the towel and spend $40 on a casual lunch for two.
Considering that many of the restaurants come with either a joyful, nostalgic atmosphere or mesmerizing scenery (or both) I’ll take the latter every time. Here are some of the top-recommended options:
- (Mile 49) Big Sur River Inn & Restaurant
- (Mile 45) Big Sur Bakery
- (Mile 45) Sierra Mar at Post Ranch Inn
- (Mile 44) Nepenthe
- (Mile 11) Treebones Resort
Where to Stay in Big Sur
Choosing a place to stay in Big Sur is a HUGE part of the fun! You won’t find any cookie cutter hotel chains out here; instead, you’ll choose from a small selection of cozy inns, cabins, and even glamping locations!
Assuming you aren’t camping (which is totally an option, by the way) I recommend looking into any of the below accommodations:
- (Mile 49) Big Sur River Inn
- (Mile 45) Ventana Big Sur
- (Mile 45) Post Ranch Inn
- (Mile 43) Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn
- (Mile 11) Treebones Resort
Ventana and Post Ranch Inn are the luxury options; the type of place you might splurge for during your honeymoon. Big Sur River Inn is probably the best family-friendly option, while Deetjen’s is a cute little spot in the redwoods that would be suitable for couples, families, and groups alike.
Treebones, where we stayed, is a glamping option. The accommodations mostly consist of yurts, although there are a few other more unique “rooms” as well. I’ll be covering our stay at this incredible property in a future blog post, so stay tuned!
I hope you have found my Ultimate Big Sur Travel Guide to be helpful! Big Sur is hands-down one of the most breathtaking destinations I’ve visited since moving to Northern California, and I’m certain I’ll be back soon enough!
Pin It!
Have you ever visited Big Sur, or are you hoping to visit? Is there any information missing from my Big Sur travel guide that you would like to see added, or questions I can answer? Drop them in the comments below – I’ll do my best to answer!
Thank you for the article! I have not heard of this place before. My friends and I will be traveling around California in a rental car. I think we should come here.
That’s awesome, have a fun trip!
Stopped to see McWay Falls on our way from Monterey to Big Sur. They had the main trail at the falls closed part of the way so it made the viewing area where you could see the full view of the falls VERY small. It was a little chaotic and we had to wait 10-15 minutes to get our turn. Easy hike from parking lot to the falls viewing area. $10 to park.
Yolanda recently posted…Best Lightweight Sleeping Pads for Backpacking
Hi Kelly
Thanks for a great article and a timely one! Heading to Carmel in July, and now to Big Sur to enjoy these fantastic vistas!
Kevin
kevin recently posted…Best Self-Propelled Lawn Mower 2019 | Reviews
Looks like an epic trip! Do you feel like you hit every spot you wanted without being rushed or are you planning a second trip?
I do feel like I hit every spot I wanted for this trip. But I’d happily return for another weekend in Big Sur anyways!
Hey Kelly the place looks so gorgeous, this would be the perfect place for honeymoon. Especially the coastline, it’s rare to see such a clear water!
Tony Chen recently posted…Best Sushi for Beginners-Simple Sushi Guide
Hi Kelly !
Thanks for a nice article. It’s amazing place for travel. Especially for the Highway drive.
AK Jabir recently activity..Webpedia Online