Alright, Guanajuato – you win.

You had some fierce competition – cosmopolitan Mexico City, trendy Tulum, historic Guadalajara, artsy San Miguel de Allende, rural Tepoztlan – but, you did it.

You’re my favorite city in Mexico.

My first view of Guanajuato was from way up high, near the El Pipila monument, where I was greeted with panoramic views of the valley’s many colorful homes below. But it wasn’t until I actually made my way down into the winding city streets that Guanajuato truly captured my heart.

My first thought: “Wait a minute, am I really in Mexico…or am I in Europe?!”

The countless al fresco cafes and cozy restaurants with their second-story balconies overlooking the plazas below; the posh rectangular trees of El Jardin; the beautifully paved streets and polished historic buildings; the opulent architecture of Teatro Juarez and the Basilica of Our Lady of Guanajuato…

It truly felt more like I was walking down the streets of Italy than the streets of a small university city in the dusty Mexican heartlands.

Yet here I was – surrounded by restaurants and architecture that wouldn’t look out of place in Europe’s finest cities – with a mariachi band playing on the steps of the theater and colorful papel picado blowing in the wind.

Talk about a clash of cultures! But actually, it all makes complete sense if you understand a bit about Guanajuato’s history.

The Spanish first struck gold here in the 1540s, and it quickly became one of the world’s leading locations for mining. It continued to serve as a major mining center between the 16th and 18th centuries, and eventually became the richest city in Mexico – a status that it maintained throughout much of the early Spanish colonial period.

This incredible wealth allowed the city to construct world-class civil and religious buildings. Today, several of Guanajuato’s churches are recognized for being the pinnacle of Baroque architecture in Latin America.

In other words, the reason Guanajuato looks and feels so European is because it was heavily, heavily influenced by Europe throughout much of its development and early history.

But of course, the city’s modern culture is inherently Mexican; the handicraft markets, passionate street murals, dimly-lit cantinas, and smell of freshly made gorditas and pozole wafting down the alleyways will be sure to remind you of that.

And while my relationship with Guanajuato can definitely be described as “love at first sight,” my fondness for the city only grew as I explored every nook and cranny I could find over the next four days I spent there.

The stunning architecture and colors of the historic city center stole my heart; the teeny-tiny winding alleyways, hole-in-the-wall cafes and bars, and youthful, friendly vibe sealed the deal.

What to Do in Guanajuato

Architectural Sights: Plazas, Cathedrals, & More

The literal and figurative heart of Guanajuato, El Jardin is the perfect spot for kicking off your explorations around the city. This triangle-shaped plaza is instantly recognizable for its square-cut trees, which line El Jardin and create the feeling of being in a lush green oasis.

The architecture here is among the most beautiful and elegant I’ve seen in all of Mexico, and the atmosphere is joyful and energetic. An abundance of bars and restaurants – many with outdoor seating – surround the plaza, and mariachi bands play to the enthusiastic applause of Mexican and international tourists alike.

Just across from El Jardin you’ll find the Templo de San Diego de Alcántara, one of the first churches constructed in Guanajuato. It features an elaborate stone-carved facade, though its next-door neighbor – Teatro Juarez – is quick to steal the spotlight.

With its 12 stately columns, elegant lampposts, and bronze statues depicting figures from Greek mythology, Teatro Juarez is imposing, majestic, and dramatic all at once. It’s known for being the most beautiful theater in Mexico, and it’s easy to see why; it rivals the constructions of Athens and Rome.

Just a few steps away you’ll also find the Basilica of our Lady of Guanajuato, AKA “that yellow and red cathedral that’s in every photo of Guanajuato on the internet.” But hey, it’s understandable – this 17th century Baroque basilica is as visually striking on the inside as it is from the outside.

It’s located in the Plaza de la Paz (Plaza of Peace) and was the area where Guanajuato’s richest families once built their homes, during the Spanish colonial area. That means that the architecture here is particularly beautiful and elegant, though today the buildings have mostly been converted to restaurants and shops.

Two blocks north you’ll find the University of Guanajuato. The main building here is known for its Neoclassical style and 113 steps; climb to the top for a nice view of El Pipila above (more on him in a moment) and the city below.

On this same street, directly next to the University, is the Templo de la Compañía. This 17th century church is recognized as one of the best examples of Baroque architectural style in Latin America.

One of my favorite plazas in Guanajuato was the Plaza Allende, just a 5 minute walk southeast of El Jardin. Here you’ll find two large statues depicting the fictional characters Don Quixote and Sancho Panza on horseback. The city’s colorful hillside homes are visible from the plaza, and make the perfect backdrop for the larger-than-life statues.

A five minute walk in the opposite direction from El Jardin, you’ll find one of my favorite churches in the city: Parroquia y Templo de Belén. Located directly across from Mercado Hildago, this church doesn’t look like much from the outside and would be easy to stroll right past.

But the inside features a unique and beautiful combination of carved wooden and golden decor, which gives the church an elegant – yet surprisingly comfortable and welcoming – atmosphere.

And last but certainly not least, you can’t visit Guanajuato without laying eyes upon El Pipila, the enormous monument that watches over the city from way up high on the hilltop. I’ll spare you the details and let you read the story about this local hero for yourself, but just know that there’s a viewpoint up here where you’ll find those iconic overhead views of the city.

You can take the funicular (located right next to Teatro Juarez) or walk up the countless sets of stairs, if you’re feeling up for it. Either way, the viewpoint is a must-do for that classic photo of Guanajuato!

Explore the Callejones

While not as “guidebook worthy” as the historic sites listed above, Guanajuato’s callejones (alleys) are – in my opinion – what make the city so enchanting, and unlike anywhere else I’ve visited.

Whereas Guanajuato’s main plazas and boulevards can be bustling, busy, and full of life, a walk through the small alleyways that twist and turn up into the hills above the city will make you feel as if you’ve stumbled into a brand new world of color, where you’re the only inhabitant.

Here, the sounds of joyful music and cars honking will be lost in the maze of rainbow-hued buildings and cobblestone streets. Instead, you’ll be treated to blissful silence, accentuated by the occasional chorus of birds singing, or fragments of a conversation drifting down from an open window.

Getting hopelessly lost in these winding callejones was hands-down my favorite activity in Guanajuato.

It was the perfect mix of peaceful and adventurous, and the best opportunity for experiencing the city’s famed colors up-close and in-person. I literally spent hours doing this on my first day in town!

Recommending a specific street or landmark is useless and defeats the point; instead, I recommend choosing a random direction, and stepping into any of the narrow alleyways leading off the main streets. At first, it may appear as if you’re walking towards a dead end or sketchy back alley – this is a sign that you’re on the right track.

Be patient; the true magic comes after a few moments of walking, as you head away from the heart of the city. Keep in mind that you will be climbing stairs on the way up, and with all of the sharp turns it can be easy to get lost. But that’s all part of the fun 😉

And if you ever get too turned around, simply make your way back down towards the city; you may not know where exactly you are, but as long as you keep descending, the callejones are sure to spit you back out somewhere close to El Jardin.

Museums in Guanajuato

Museo Iconográfico del Quijote

Are you familiar with the tale of this fictional literary “hero?” I’ll admit I’ve never read Don Quixote, but luckily I was at least familiar with the story of his epic battle against the windmills (ahem, giants).

That said, I had heard that Guanajuato’s museum dedicated to good ole Don was well worth visiting, so I made my way inside, not quite sure what to expect.

Piecing together tidbits of information from the museum along with some summaries I had read online, I learned that Don Quixote was something of a madman…but also a serious romantic, book lover, and adventurer at heart. So I mean, it’s sort of hard not to find him a bit relatable in some ways, ya know?

The story goes something like this: Don Quixote was a simple old man in the Spanish countryside who became obsessed with the adventure tales he had read about in his books. Dreaming of chivalrous acts and damsels in distress, he attempted to satisfy his restless spirit and big imagination by setting off on his own adventure…unfortunately, he mostly ended up getting himself and others into more trouble.

There seems to be some disagreement about whether the story is a comedy or a tragedy; the art within the museum depicts the character in both lights, and in a variety of artistic styles.

Even without having read the book, I absolutely enjoyed every second spent in this museum. There was also a small section dedicated to Hernan Cortes and other prominent historical figures, as well as works by several famed Mexican artists.

Museo del Pueblo de Guanajuato

This museum wasn’t really my favorite, and it’s quite small, but considering that you’ll pay barely more than 1 USD to enter, it’s worth popping in for a quick visit.

I believe many of the exhibits are temporary, but during my visit the museum was displaying a mixture of older religious artwork and abstract modern art. The baroque chapel on the second floor had an interesting mural.

Museo Casa Diego Rivera

Fans of Diego Rivera (and Frida Kahlo) can’t miss this museum. This is the house where the artist was born and spent the first six years of his life, and it now displays an impressive collection of his original works.

You’ll see some of his earliest sketches, and a decent bit of the information is available in English as well as Spanish. This is a museum that I really enjoyed and can highly recommend!

Where to Eat in Guanajuato

Los Campos: If you follow just ONE of my recommendations, make it Los Campos! This trendy, cozy, candlelit restaurant blends rustic Mediterranean and traditional Mexican cuisine. The atmosphere is great, but the food is better; the menu mostly consists of small plates and tapas, perfect for sharing or dining solo. Try the Guacamole Azteca – it has grasshoppers!

El Trompo de San Javier: In the mood for some good old-fashioned, authentic local cuisine? This a top notch spot for ordering amazingly fresh street tacos (the kind that come with a wedge of lime, chopped cilantro and onion, and red or green salsa). Simple and delicious! I ordered the chorizo and al pastor and can vouch for both; take it to-go and eat on a bench in El Jardin, where you can people-watch and listen to the mariachis.

Cafe Tal: Imagine melting down a semi-sweet dark chocolate bar, pouring it into an espresso cup, and taking a sip. This is essentially what you’ll get when you order the Beso Negro, or “Black Kiss” a super thick, creamy, highly-concentrated hot chocolate. Mmmm.

Conquistador Cafe: I ducked into this teeny corner cafe during a sudden (but intense) downpour…and thank goodness I did! The chai latte I ordered was utterly delicious, sweet, and foamy. Seating is limited; there are only 3 or so tables with small stools, but the fresh, warm coffee smells were heavenly.

La Vie en Rose: This adorable spot has an excellent restaurant upstairs and an Instagram-worthy bakery on the first floor. The second-floor dining area has wide French doors that open up to to balconies, which overlook the street below. I decided to have lunch here, and ordered the Norwegian salad: smoked salmon, grilled shrimp, grapefruit, avocado, and a citrusy balsamic dressing. SO GOOD.

La Clave Azul: This tucked away cantina is one of the coolest watering holes in the city…er, so I’ve heard. I apparently visited at the worst possible time – 2pm on a Monday, when there was absolutely zero atmosphere and I was the only patron! That said, the vibe was still extremely hip; the bar is divey, funky, and dimly lit, with miscellaneous art covering the walls. And supposedly tapas come free with alcoholic beverage purchases during certain times of the day. Navigating the back alleys to find this hidden gem is a big part of the fun!

La Capellina: As much as I LOVE Mexican food, after nearly 10 full days in the country I decided to deviate from the local cuisine in favor of pasta. This Italian restaurant serves good food, and is located a stone’s throw from El Jardin.

Estación Gelato: I have just 3 words: Sweet. Potato. Gelato. Okay, I miiiight have also had the chocolate gelato…but trust me when I say that when you see their flavor selection (and how creamy their gelato is) you’ll want to order at least two scoops, too!

El Cerro de las Ranas: So, to be frank, there’s nothing particularly special about this restaurant…aside from the location, that is. It’s situated in Plaza de San Fernando, where casual sidewalk cafes and shady outdoor eateries are a dime a dozen. It’s a great spot for having a michellada and maybe a bite to eat, due to the hub of activity that fills the square. Pick a spot, settle in, and enjoy the al fresco ambiance!

Mercado de Gavira: This food market (located to the left of the entrance to the Mercado Hildago) serves up a variety of authentic Mexican dishes. As soon as you step inside, the women working behind the various counters will usher you over, hoping you’ll choose to eat at their stall. Fortunately, there’s no need to waver over the decision, as the menus are all largely the same. I grabbed a seat at the Fonda Dona Petra, and ordered some enchiladas verdes and a Coca Cola. Ahhh.

And that, mis amigos, is the spectacular city of Guanajuato. I had four magical days in this dreamy city, and would return in a heartbeat to explore its many streets, shops, and restaurants in greater depth.

Whether you have one day in Guanajuato, several days, a week, or longer (you lucky duck!) I hope you’re as charmed and enchanted by this gorgeous place as I was…and still am.

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I know I’ve been writing a LOT about Mexico this year…but that’s truly because I have so much to say about this incredible, diverse country! That said, this will be one of my last Mexico posts, so stay tuned for some fresh content about my recent travels around California and Spain.

If you’ve been reading along this whole time, which of the cities I’ve visited in Mexico this year do you think YOU would like to visit the most: Tulum, Guadalajara, Tequila, San Miguel de Allende, or Guanajuato? I’d love to know!

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